Sunday, May 5, 2013

Singapore Explorations

5 May 2013

My apologies on some of the spacing here - the internet cafe computers aren't as cooperative as my Mac is, so I can't quite make things line up the way I'd like.



We took a doubledecker bus to one area of the city on Friday, and managed to get the front seats upstairs. This gave us wonderful views of the traffic, the busy-ness of Singapore, our quaint and very Chinese neighborhood, and the contrast with the very modern international center of the city. (And stoplights gave me access to some great photos, which would be difficult had we been in motion.)


Singapore is a huge island nation, just south of the Malaysian peninsula. It has been settled by Malaysians, Chinese, people from Myanmar (not sure if they are Myanmarese or Myanmarians – but these are the men in sarongs, not Sri Lankans), east Indians, and of course the British. The nation was a British colony and part of that huge empire, but was taken over by the Japanese during WWII, and then reverted back to British rule after the war. The country gained independence on August 9, 1964, and has moved forward since then. (This information is from my little buddy at Starbucks in a mall we’ve gone to – he’s very helpful, very friendly, and he and his barista friend were willing to tell me all about Singapore history. There’s compulsory two-year military service for young men aged 18, and that’s where the two of them are headed. However, Singapore hasn’t been involved in a war since WWII, so they said they just wear the uniform, go through training, and are ready to protect the country.)

Some of the buildings are in the 1920-30s style, with Art Nouveau as well as Asian influences. Other modern buildings have definite Chinese architecture – the pagoda roof, the Foo dogs outside.


And that's a pedestrian overpass, about 15 feet above the road (4.5 m), with lovely flowers growing on it.  I haven't ventured up there yet - all the cars rushing by below tend to make me very dizzy!
And then there was the amazing Hindu temple, covered with statues of various gods, the whole thing in gorgeous bright colors – it was an incredible sight! I have no idea how to get there, we passed it on the bus and I was lucky to get the one shot!
We also explored a supermarket – the produce section was full of beautiful fruit, the most exotic being dragon fruit from Vietnam. The colors were just so intense! There are other things we have no clue about – for example, this drink with the little blue cartoon animal on a pink background – obviously a drink geared toward children. But is this a bunny or a cat? And what flavor is the drink? We have no idea – I just liked the can.

The rice display – of course, there were huge bags of rice, some 20-25 kg each I would estimate, with beautiful bags showing dragons, pagodas, and such. And the ramen shelves make the rice display look paltry – the ramen section looked like a warehouse in the supermarket!!!!!! I always
thought the ramen craze was an American phenomenon, but it seems it truly is an Asian thing.





 













On Saturday, we took the subway/el into town, trying to find the Singaporean info center – it turned out to not be much of a center, but we gathered some maps and brochures. The info center was in the ION building – no idea what ION stands for – but this is one of those super-modern futuristic buildings, something like the free-form architecture of Frank Gehry. It’s a cross-between organic shape and geodesic dome triangles and mirrored surfaces and metal pillars that look like trees. With an entrance to the subway that looks like a small spaceship. I’m not describing it well, because those disparate parts really do manage to work together in this crazy building. It was actually quite cool.

Some of the buildings in the distance are modern with Asian influences – again, the hint of a pagoda in a roof or portico, the green or red roof.

There were hundreds of eating spots in this mall – the actual mall comprises the first four floors of the building, and four basement floors. Yes, it goes four storeys underground, and connects with the subway on basement level two. And, the top several floors of the eight storeys aboveground are the parking garage. Kind of opposite the way we do things in the US, but on the otherhand, having the mall below ground probably saves a whole lot of money on the AC bill – Singapore is 1.4 degrees north of the equator, so it is hot and steamy all year round. (One man in an elevator told me that with climate change, it’s getting even hotter than it used to be.)


 
Anyway, there was a “tea room” in the middle of the mall, TWG Tea, that supposedly is a Parisian restaurant over 150 years old – but this particular open restaurant was surrounded by orchid plants atop partitions, to create the space, rather than walls. The orchids were truly gorgeous – amazing colors, graceful shapes, and exotic in that way that only orchids can achieve.



I found these wonderful panda sculptures - enamel on brass - huge, life-size pandas with Picasso-esque paintings scattered on them! Just sort of crazy and funny in an artsy way!


The mall was getting ready for the Singapore Fashion Week, and American Express had a huge booth outside – Richard talked me into posing for a photo with a “where’s your dream” sign – because then we could each get a sleep mask for airplanes. We also spent time talking with the two nice young men who took my photos and helped me post them on Facebook – they’re both students in university, but this is the fall break and so this job will is just part-time during the holiday.


So we walked around the mall, had some breakfast (Richard's French toast came with two slices held together by peanut butter in the middle; my ham and egg (scrambled) sandwich came with the crusts cut off; and we've learned to ask for tea and coffee no sugar no milk, because otherwise they automatically come with both).

I also explored the ION art gallery - very interesting place. This is an art gallery with a rotating exhibit, in the mall. This month featured a few artists who do traditional Chinese brush painting, but re-interpreted in a modern way - maybe abstraction, or more depth of field, or using sticks instead of brushes, or blowing the ink as well as brushwork - at any rate, very interesting. There were also oil and acrylic paintings on canvas, my favorite being the work of an artist who simply calls himself Vinc - he prints photos on huge canvases, then paints over the photo image so that the result is realistic in detail and expressivist in color, almost Fauvist. I really liked his image of NYC's Chrysler building, done in quite greys and whites and periwinkles, against a bright turquoise sky. Or the Chelsea Inn and street scene, in mostly reds and pinks and blues. Very New York in a bright colorful cheerful and slightly surreal vision.
 
Anyway, Richard and I enjoyed the very urban feel of the mall and subway and streets, crowded with people (who, by the way, make me look TALL!), all the activity and hustle and bustle of downtown Singapore.


When we came home, our subway/el stop had a strange display in the little park outside. I have no idea what's going on with all the cows (who are under surveillance - someone's keeping an eye on the cows to make sure they behave? aren't stolen? aren't vandalized? that the cows don't stage an insurrection?) and the huge hearts in the trees. Unless this is "Be Kind to Cows" month here? We really have no idea, but it was just a funny and lighthearted display.

Today, Sunday, we're taking a bit of a break to catch up on internet, reading, and plan activities for the week - art museum, zoo (both day and night visits), and a harbour cruise are all definites. We just need to figure out how to get to those places, and decide what days are best. And book the cruise, because the rest are pay-as-you-arrive.

So - having fun in Singapore. Having fun being urban, after our outdoorsy camping in Australia.








Thursday, May 2, 2013

More Singapore

3 May 2013


The adventures continue.   I really like my breakfast banana prata - the dough is sort of like a gummier version of tortilla, but super thin, so that it's stretched into layers and then folded over the lightly fried bananas in the center.  It comes with some  hot and spicy gravy or sauce, almost a cinnamony curry flavor - but I like the banana prata by itself.  (And spicy just isn't in my stomach's morning repertoire.)  This morning's tea was lightly vanilla flavored.  Yummy!

Richard wanted to try Mos Burger, which is a big Japanese burger chain.  Where they have the Rice Burger - not a burger made of rice, nope, that would be too weird, rice in a burger bun - no, they have rice patties to make a bun!  It actually is very tasty - I had the Yakinika (or something like that) which is stirfried beef and onion, almost like sukiyaki, but not quite.  With lettuce, of course, because it IS a burger.  (The lady at the counter offered me ketchup.  Seriously.)  I wasn't sure it would hold together if I picked it up like a burger, so I ate it with a spoon.  Different, but very tasty!

We did encounter something on last night's menu:  colorectal heads.  NO idea what that is, and NO desire to find out!!!  (and I chose NOT to eat at that place!  Some of the food scares me!)

The shrines continue to fascinate me.  I liked this little metal house with stairs, presumably so the house gods can walk up to smell the lovely incense, or to eat the offerings.  Or maybe sit on the little elephant statues?  Or maybe the elephant statues are representations of the house gods (like Ganesha?) and they need to go for a walk sometimes?  I'm not sure - as I said, they are endlessly fascinating.  I think not knowing what or why makes them more interesting to us - if I knew much about the reasons or the religion, I'm sure they'd seem mundane.

There are quite a few cats in our neighborhood, and we wondered if the cats walk up the steps to check out this shrine.

So other than the shrines, most of the buildings are fairly Western and boring.  Just the usual boxy shapes.  Until we found this building, dated 1929.  Wow!  Gorgeous!  Ornate bas relief with all kinds of animals and plants and colors, plus beautiful tilework!  Sort of Art Nouveau meets China!  We found a few buildings like this as we walked around further outside our immediate neighborhood.  I really like the colors and ornamentation of these older buildings!

The downtown area has very modern buildings, and I'll get some photos - we were there late in the day on a cloudy day, and photos were coming out dark.

But there was a series of decorated manhole or sewer covers, letting people know that these sewers lead out to the reservoir, so don't dump waste in there.  Apparently this was a community initiative, and competition - my favorites were some designed by students, of course - and for my art friends, you'll enjoy the Asian and Manga influences in the art!











And of course there's a mosque, visible from our hotel window, because this is such a multicultural society.  Haven't heard any calls to worship from the muezzin - but I do like the view! 

Oh - we seem to have kind of a funny ongoing battle with the hotel fairy.  (Yes, the hotel fairy - the person you never see who comes and makes the bed and cleans the room.)  Anyway, our hotel fairy makes the bed with the ugly beige blanket between the top and bottom sheets, because it obviously looks better that way.  But they have these wonderfully soft and silky and smooth cotton sheets that are so comfy to sleep on, so every night I remake the bed with the ugly blanket on top.  I finally asked the desk staff about it, and they laughed and said that yes, people sleep between the sheets, but housekeeping makes the bed that way because it looks better.  I laughed and said I wasn't sure if maybe this was a Singapore thing we didn't know about.

Odd, huh?





More Adventures in Singapore

2 May 2013

I'm sitting in an upstairs room at an internet cafe, blogging.  The room is full of young Singaporean (Singapori?) men, mostly watching videos or playing games on the computers.  (It's less expensive up here, so I figured why not?  Not that it's any different downstairs.........they just charge a little more.)

We've tried to get a sim card for my wifi device - have jumped through hoops and gone all over the city - and today spent over an hour with a nice man at the SingTel store, as he figured out how to change the inner info in my account with Vodafone so that I could use SingTel instead.

All to find out I can't buy the sim card without a passport.  

I carry a photo copy of my passport, ever since my passport was stolen years ago.  Richard's passport was stolen.  We don't walk around with them.

Who knew you had to have one to buy a sim card?  (We also weren't allowed into the casino since we didn't have our passports - I told the bouncer guy they really couldn't expect a 58 yr old retired teacher and 60-something yr old retired attorney to be illegal aliens or anything - I mean, seriously!)

Anyway, so since I have sort of a "well *$%@ you!" attitude about these things, I'll skip SingTel and the casino and just use an internet cafe for $1/hour.  No problem.

All that to explain why I don't have any photos today.

We've learned to get around town on the buses and the train (which goes from subway to el) - so we're getting around.

And we're having adventures in eating.  There was the banana prata for breakfast (which sounds like a yoga posture, doesn't it?) - tasty and nutritious.  Today I had a yakinuki (or something) rice burger - at Mos Burger, a Japanese burger chain - the yakinuki (or whatever) is sort of teryaki beef and onions, in a "bun" made of compressed rice, with some lettuce in there.  Delicious, but I asked for chopsticks (ended up with a spoon) because I wasn't sure it would hold up in my hands.  Dinner - $3 for a plate of roast duck, in hoisin sauce, over rice.  With some cucumber on the side.  Amazing, huh?

We're still having fun.  No major adventures yet, but I'm sure we'll get into some as we explore further.

Okay, time to go - love to you all!

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Singapore!

1 May 2013

We arrived in Singapore on 29 April, about 9:30 PM - and really managed to rush through Customs and Immigration, collect our luggage, and find a shuttle bus that took us straight to our hotel.

But it was an incredibly modern and beautiful airport, with a most intriguing "sculpture."  You know how some fountains go up and down with a variety of configurations in accompaniment to music?  This sculpture of amber-colored glass droplets moved up and down on monofilament, in time to the music!  It was absolutely mesmerizing, and gorgeous!  I could have watched it for hours - and probably will, in two weeks, when we leave Singapore.  It really was so unique, and relaxing, and I have no idea how they do this!

Anyway, we arrived at our hotel.  Found our room.  It was maybe 10:30 Singapore time, which made it midnight Darwin time - so I was ready to fall into bed.  But Richard was thirsty, and went out to find a cold drink.  He came back a short while later, and reported that our neighborhood was full of pedestrians, many restaurants, and he had been propositioned a few times - yes, we're in the red light district.  We knew that.  We were prepared.  He smiled, said no thank you, and came back to the hotel.

Next morning we get up, and head out for breakfast.  We walked around our neighborhood for a bit - very mixed Malaysian/ Indian/ Chinese, with probably an emphasis on the Chinese.  So the vending machines have melon juice, cold green tea, and juice by the "Heaven and Earth" company.  Wouldn't you like to drink something made by Heaven and Earth?
 
There were little shrines in front of many of the businesses that we thought were restaurants, little red houses with small statues, fruits, cakes, incense burning.  The scent of incense filled the air, and it was wonderful.  I'm fascinated by these little shrines, so I took a bunch of photos of them, though I'm not sure if that's okay or not.

There were also many places with orange trees out front, often with red ribbons or tassels.  I know red is the color associated with both youth and luck in many Asian cultures, so I figured this must be some symbol of luck.  Or some- thing like that.

So we went on our merry way, enjoying Singapore and the vast variety of people - most of the people in this neighborhood seem to be of Chinese descent, but there are many Indian people in traditional tunics and pants (men) or saris (women).  Sikhs with colorful turbans.  Sri Lankan men with a T shirt and sarong.  (I'm sure we saw Malaysian people, but I really don't yet recognize the difference between Malay and Chinese descent.)  And my personal favorite, the Buddhist monk or novice, I'm not sure which, in saffron and maroon.

Our day continued, and turned into evening.  We walked around our neighborhood as the night cooled off, and the "restaurants" opened up for the night business.  We peeked inside.  Yup, they aren't restaurants at all - they're brothels!  Pretty young women lined up inside, lots of doors along narrow hallways, candles and incense everywhere, and huge piles of sheets (that one made us laugh!).  We had a good laugh over the restaurants that turned out to be brothels!  

I did ask one man outside a brothel about the shrines and pineapples - he said the pineapples are offerings to the household gods (I guess of the shrine), and the pineapple is to bring good luck.  (Or, the cynical side of me says, good business.)

Somehow the idea of a shrine outside each brothel just makes me laugh!


Darwin Airport

1 May 2013
 
Before I go into what our trip to Singapore has been like, I wanted to finish up with Darwin.

The newspaper seems to focus on deadly animals in the Top End - there was the 2.5 meter crocodile that bit a French sailor on the head and neck and back when he swam to tie up a dingy.  (Complete with photos.)  The two young boys in shallow water being stalked by a croc, and when one saw the croc and yelled out, the croc turned and grabbed their young pit bull.  (Sad story, I know!)  The shark stalking "fishos" (fishermen) in the harbour.  The hockey player killed by a brown snake he apparently took away from some children.  And then some more snake stories.  Reminding people to call the animal people to come get the snakes and crocs, and don't try to catch the yourself.

Seems obvious, no?

Well, I'm not Aussie.  I'm not a tough person used to life in the Top End.  Well, and after two years in Liberia, I've learned to be very afraid of snakes.  (That's another story.)  But seriously, when I hear that there are more venomous snakes here than on any other continent, I KNOW I'm not touching a snake.  Or when I'm told that the 11 deadliest snakes (of the top 12) live here, I KNOW I'm not getting anywhere near a snake!

Or a croc.  Have you seen those teeth?  I knew I wouldn't swim much of anywhere when I saw my first croc story in the paper.


But as I said, I don't live in the Top End, this hasn't been my version of normal for most of my life, and so I haven't gotten accustomed to crocs and snakes and giant spiders.  So what can I say, I guess people get used to what's around them, and maybe aren't always as cautious as the environment warrants.

 The Darwin airport - very cool benches outside, which sort of set the tone for the decor inside.  I just really liked these benches with the cutouts on each end.

And then the gift shop, so you can spend the last of your Aussie dollars before flying off to Singapore or Bali - on exciting stuff like spicy kangaroo jerky.  Or crocodile jerky.  Or emu jerky.  
No thank you.  Sorry, but kangaroos are cute, even though they're considered a pest here - and I try not to eat anything so cute.  And crocodiles are like sharks - my theory is that if I don't eat them, maybe they won't eat me.  Seriously, I won't eat shark.  Or crocodile.

Emu?  That one is a maybe.  I've eaten ostrich, which actually is pretty good.  So maybe emu.

Maybe.  But probably not.

Because I don't think trying new food before flying is a good idea.  Just in case it doesn't sit easily in the stomach.


My favorite part of the Darwin airport was the carpet.  Seriously wonderful carpet.  I have no idea how they did this, but it's one gigantic carpet that shows some animals of the area.  Down at the bottom, by the uncarpeted walkway, we begin with the lobsters (or crayfish or crawfish, as some people here call them).  Then the long-necked turtles - which actually live in fresh water, but never mind, we aren't being technical or scientific here, we're being poetic in a visual kind of way.

Then some big giant fish.  This might be the barramundi that are here - it's one of those fish that live both in fresh and salt water, they get really huge, and it's a local delicacy.  Fried barra and chips are a classic.  (It's a very small-flaked white fish - not solid like tuna or swordfish, more like flounder maybe.  Tasty, but it 
flakes into very small pieces, very easily.)

Then some shore birds, I'm not sure exactly what.  Just a long-legged shore bird that might or might not be an accurate portrayal of a real heron, or pukeko, or ibis, or something.

Then parrots, or cockatoos, or some kind of big dark bird with the beak and face of the parrot family.  There are all kinds of parrot family birds here - lorikeets, rosellas, I don't know what else.  No macaws, but more cockatoos than I've ever seen in my life.  Some are dark, like this - they probably didn't want the white cockatoos in a carpet for an airport, they'd get too dirty.  There ARE black cockatoos here, so I'm guessing that's who these birds are.

And then the hummingbirds, who are as colorful and surprising and inspiring as hummingbirds everywhere - just industrious and happy little birds in all kinds of bright colors!

Just beyond the hummingbirds are the huge windows looking out on the planes and landing strips.  Open sky.  The great beyond.

It really is a very cool airport, and I just loved that carpet!