Sunday, August 23, 2026

Gibraltar is More Than a Rock

31 July 2026 – Gibraltar 

 

Gibraltar is officially English, though it’s located on the southern coast of Spain.  Weird, right?  Apparently Spain officially ceded Gibraltar to Great Britain in 1713, as part of one of those treaties during their eternal wars and hostilities. 

There are all sorts of tunnels that were part of the defensive military strategy, as well as the dramatic rock formation itself.  And a huge cave, which was once believed to endless – that’s how huge it is! 

Gibraltar is also one of the few places in Europe with apes (tailless monkeys are officially apes) – though they aren’t indigenous, and were brought from North Africa centuries ago.

J signed up for a strenuous hike to the uppermost point on The Rock, as it’s affectionately called.  Her photos show the cave as well as all the views from the top of the rock.  She saw some of the Barbary apes, but they didn't stay still enough for photos.

I had planned to walk around the lower town, shop, explore.  But somewhere during the previous day or two, I sort of twisted my ankle.  Not bad enough to remember it nor to do anything about it.  But enough that my ankle swelled up and hurt to walk around much.  So I opted to stay on the ship and baby the ankle, trying to keep it elevated.

However, staying in one place with a foot propped up is boring – I eventually went up to the Lido Deck (Deck 9, and where the buffet is held).  I went between meals, and found a quiet table off to one side.  It was a foggy morning, so the peninsula that is Gibraltar was shadowed and dark, wreathed in tendrils of mist and fog.    Made for a moody and interesting task, trying to capture the city growing up the sheer cliffs!  Eventually the sun broke through the fog and changed the entire landscape.  Oh well, my sketch shows some of the fog rolling over the mountain.  Although sometimes it looks like fog to me, and at other times it looks more like something shiny reflecting the sun.  Not my best work, but hey, sketchbooks are meant to capture a moment in time, a scene, an impression – and it does that, so I’m okay with my confused fog. 

Just to give credit, all the photos except my painting are by my sister-in-law J.   





 

 

Sea Days, Days at Sea

30 July 2026 – Day at Sea 

Cruise schedules are usually based on a certain length of time for each leg, so that people can take either a seven day cruise, or any multiple thereof.  We were on the ship for a fourteen day cruise, but we met people who had signed up for anything from one to six weeks.  Yes, the six week cruisers visited repeating ports.  But our fourteen days didn’t repeat anywhere, and we didn’t visit any cities east of Rome.  I suspect the entire route was four or five weeks, from Turkey to Portugal, but I’m not positive.

At any rate, the cruise routes are somewhat geographic but sometimes include a bit of backtracking to begin and end each leg at a city with a major airport.  It’s not easy nor practical to fly in and out of Portofino, for example, since the closest airport is 25 miles (40 km) distant in Genoa – and Genoa doesn’t have quite the same draw as, oh, Barcelona.

All this to say that sometimes there are sea days as we zigzag between ports.  Some people love sea days because there are extra activities like games, movies, art auctions.  Sea days often culminate in a dressy dinner, so some people do the spa thing to prepare.  Not-so-social people like me find things to do on our own.  I usually choose a sea day to do a photo safari of the ship, where I walk around and take photos of the artwork and anything else that interests me.

However, Richard and I were on the Oosterdam for our Mediterranean and transatlantic trip in 2022, so I didn’t need another photo safari.  One of the pieces of artwork caught my attention, and I decided I wanted to sketch and paint him.

His official title is “A Florentian Head,” but he really is Dionysus, or Bacchus, or one of those gods or demigods of wine, grape, drunkenness, something along those lines.  He’s quite obviously tipsy, with his eyes rolling back a bit, and his tongue hanging out a bit.  Gloriously goofy, with grapes for curly hair, and grape leaves scattered around his vineyard hair.  An almost dimpled chin, he’s eternally cheery, grinning happily at guests as they enter the buffet on the Lido Deck.

It took me a bit to remember he was on Deck 9, so yes, I was the person who got on an (empty) elevator and pressed every button.  I peeked out at each stop, and had to explain to a staff member that I was looking for a particular piece of art.  Oh well, we artists seem to have our own logic that often doesn’t make sense to anyone else.

I stood in the hallway to sketch my friend – he takes up an entire wall, roughly 4 ft wide by 8 ft long – so maybe 1.3 by 2.6 meters?  Cast metal, painted in the aquamarine color of copper patina.  (The color of the Statue of Liberty.)

After my basic sketch, I knew I’d need to redraw my buddy Bacchus in waterproof marker.  I’m okay with detail, but watercolor in a sketchbook is not the right medium for details like grape vine hair.  So I happily sat in the Lido eating area, off to one side with a cup of iced tea to drink, and a smaller cup of water for painting.  (Yes, just about every artist has either sipped the paint water, or washed their brush in the cup holding their actual drink.)

Anyway, I had fun working on my goofy guy, and chatted with a couple of people who came by my table.  For me, it was a lovely sea day!

 

We had three additional sea days in August.  On one of the days, I decided to sketch our view from our stateroom, looking out over the bow of the ship and at the flag in the front.  The bow flag identifies the country in which a ship is registered, while the aft flag identifies the country is which the ship is presently sailing – just one of those rules of the sea.  

At any rate, our ship is registered in the Netherlands, and flies the Netherlands flag proudly.  (It IS Holland America, after all.)  On windy days, the flag would wrap around the flagpole a bit, so I tried to capture that look.

We really don't see this much of the bow from our window, because there's a deck several feet wide, and a safety wall (metal) with a wood rail on top.  I went up to Deck 10, which overlooks the bow and the flag (and where Holland America ships usually have a great little coffee café).  I excused my blocking the view to the couple of people reading, sketched the bow and flagpole, and headed back to our room to add the flag, wrapped once around the pole.

I should add that the flags aren't flown while at sea, only when in port.  But I liked the colors of the flag against the sea, with the sun reflection tracing a path we seemed to be following.  Not quite riding off into the sunset, but it did feel a bit like that. 


 

Summer in Marseille

29 July 2026 – Marseille, France – J and I agreed we wanted to take the hop-on-hop-off bus to see the city, since none of the excursions enticed us.  Prior to last October in New York, I’ve never done a hop-on-hop-off bus, but they really are a good way to get a glimpse of the city and figure out what is next to where.  Affordable, and they include a map which is helpful for that initial orientation to a new city.  Plus we can easily get off and explore, but then take the bus back to the dock and make our way back to the ship.  Easy peasy.

We drove past gorgeous buildings in the classic French styles, with mansard roofs and all sorts of embellished and decorative moldings, balconies, window frames, doors – you name it, it was fancier on these buildings than the average structure we see in North America.  We passed beaches both rocky and sandy, full of hardy souls swimming in the chilly morning sea, or sunning on the beach or the rock jetties and breakwaters.  Two huge cathedrals, one in town and the second larger one up on a rocky hill overlooking the Mediterranean.  Forts along the waterfront, and the oldest fort up on another rocky hill.  Tiny fishing neighborhoods, gorgeous gardens, posh neighborhoods, and tons of Art Nouveau apartment buildings.

We even passed the island housing the Chateau d’If, the former prison which inspired Dumas’ story “The Count of Monte Cristo!”  It was much closer to shore than I had thought when I read the novel, though definitely with rocky coasts surrounding the island as well as along the Marseille side. 

Marseille is sort of the gateway to the Provence region of France, so we got off in what seemed to be the center of the city but still along the waterfront.  Mandatory bathroom stop which of course included a snack – I had a gorgeous tarte au framboises, a raspberry tart.  I was so excited to taste it, I forgot to get a photo to show how pretty it was!  Not only did it have the pâté brissé crust (sort of a sweet shortbread pastry crust), and had a base of cream to hold the raspberries, but each raspberry was filled inside with a tiny dollop of raspberry jam!  Seriously delicious!!!  (Especially with a little café au lait on the side.)

Most cafés seemed to feature "the real bouillabaisse," complete with all sorts of seafood and shellfish.  Prices for this regional dish were high, but then, it also is full of shrimp and lobster and crab.  But it was a hot day, and a huge tureen full of steaming hot soup-stew just didn't sound appetizing.  All the ice cream (glacée) stands looked more refreshing, but we never did buy any.  Besides, I had my delightful tarte au framboise.

The vendors market across from our café was full of wonderful finds – tins enameled to show the landscape of Provence, and often filled with bars of locally made lavender or rose soap.  (I bought at empty tin because it was so pretty, but it nicely holds a stash of teabags for travel.)  I also bought a bag of herbes de Provence, which I’ll use to fancy up my grilled chicken. 

We walked along the waterfront to the Fort Saint-Jean, which is now a museum.  It’s called the Mucem – not the normal French spelling, so perhaps regional.  Huge stone walls and sprawling, this fort was built in the 1660s during the reign of Louis XIV – though it encompasses an earlier structure built in the 1100s, which housed the Knights of Saint Jean (St. John the Baptist), hence the name.

We wandered around a bit, and thought it was about time for lunch.  The elevator to the rooftop café wasn’t working, so we walked up something like four or flights of rickety metal stairs (hello vertigo), up some tower and then across battlements or parapets – whatever one calls the crenellated parts where archers and later marksmen stood to shoot at whatever enemy was invading.  There was also a narrow bridge crossing over the street below to another part of the museum, but no thank you!

We had a delightful lunch of frittata con legumes (veggie frittata) which sat on a bed of Greek yogurt seasoned with lemon zest.  Perfect for a hot sunny Mediterranean day!

Using our bus map, we found the nearby stop and waited.  And waited.  The bus supposedly came by every 15 to 20 minutes, but after half an hour we decided this wasn’t working.  We could see that part of the street was closed for the Marseille Éte event – Summer in Marseille, which seemed to be a month-long festival.  But the city bus was coming past the stop, so we couldn’t figure out why the hop-on-off bus wasn’t coming by.  Consulting the map, we realized the stop after the museum fort was the stop where we first got on the bus, near the striped cathedral and not far from the docks.  No idea how far it was, probably a kilometer or so – maybe a mile or a bit under.  So, we walked.  Not much else we could do.

However, once we were back at the beginning of the bus route, we saw we still had a few more hours before we needed to be on the ship for sail away.  So we hopped back on the bus, found seats on the open air upper deck that had a bit of shade, and we went for another complete loop of the city – about a 90 minute ride. 

We did ride past the huge basilica Notre Dame de la Garde – Our Lady of the Guard.  This is another striped building in dark and light built of limestone (the light part) and Florentine stone (also known as green stone).  The edifice dates from the mid 1800s, and features a huge gilded copper statue on top of the campanile (or bell tower).  She can be seen for miles and miles across the see, and from nearly everywhere in Marseille!