Perugia and Assisi 2024

16 October 2024

 

 

I was excited to visit Perugia, having not returned to this lovely city since 2007.  Perugia is home to one of the oldest universities in Italy (founded in 1308), and also is home to both Perugina, the chocolate company, as well as Eurochocolate, an international chocolate festival.  With that kind of background, who would not be thrilled?!?  And ready for (you guessed it) CHOCOLATE!

 

However, prior to visiting the city itself we had another stop, and wow, that was probably the most amazing place to visit!

 

In Perugia one can go to a traditional weaving studio, where artists create incredible fabrics using not only the same methods and designs but also the same looms used hundreds of years ago!  Really!  The Giuditta Brozzetti Museum Atelier
is both a museum and studio devoted to the art of weaving.

 

They are housed in an old church, aptly named the Church of St. Francis of the Women.  Current owner is Marta Cucchia, a fourth-generation master weaver and great granddaughter of the weaver for whom the studio is named.

 

The website: https://www.brozzetti.com/en/history/tradition/

 

And a video, in Italian, of Marta being interviewed for a documentary film about traditional arts in Italy (we think – my Italian is limited):  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4q7A-j71FME&ab_channel=Bellezzaepotereprogrammatelevisivo

 

The studio specializes in jacquard weaving.  Jacquard weaving is pictorial, usually in repeated patterns, but differs from tapestry weaving in several ways.  First, both the warp and weft threads (vertical and horizontal threads) are visible in the finished fabric; in tapestry weaving, the weft threads completely cover the warp threads.  Second, the design is visible from both the front and back of the cloth, while in tapestry weaving the back is usually covered and not made to be viewed.  And last, in jacquard weaving the weft threads are woven across the entire horizontal width of the fabric; in tapestry weaving uses multiple weft threads that cover only the section of fabric for each color that create the image.

 

Marta took us around the studio and showed us some of the looms, hand-carved in wood, and several hundred years old.  (I think the oldest loom was originally made in 1400-something, but that might have been 1500-something.)  Decoratively-carved end pieces and braces to help support uprights, because they were made in an era where even utilitarian items were beautiful!  Hand-carved wood gears and cogs!  The looms were works of art themselves!

 

She also demonstrated how jacquard is woven.  The patterns are based on a grid system, and each design needs certain warp threads to be lifted or lowered as the weft threads are drawn through.  Metal punch cards are created for each design, one per row of weave, and are attached to each other, making a long chain for the design – somewhat like a roll of music on a metal sheet for a player piano.  The long chain of cards runs through a device on the top of each loom, and the punch cards indicated which warp threads are lifted or lowered.  (This is the super simplified explanation, because the way the warp threads are lifted gets really complicated to describe.)

 

It was absolutely fascinating to watch Marta weave!  Some of the looms are a good six feet (two meters) wide, and there’s a special bobbin sort of thing (called a shuttle) for the weft thread – it just flies through the warp threads, then the beater sort of combs the weft back and makes a nice tight weave.  There are multiple parts in motion, from the treadle that lifts the heddles which control the warp threads, to the shuttle flying back and forth, to the beater – plus a button that advances the punch card chain – whew! 

 

PLUS!  That chain of punch cards can be run BACKWARDS, to create a mirror image of the design just woven!  So a weaver could create fabric with a line of lions, standing on a small row of flowers, with a second line of lions that are upside down, like a reflection!  Amazing!!!

 

We all were in weaving heaven!  People were asking questions, taking photos, asking more questions – and then shopping.  The finished products were SO gorgeous, and trying to decide whether or not to buy something, and then which one to buy, became a major decision!  When everything is beautiful, how do you pick just one item?

 

I solved it by not buying anything, since we don’t have a permanent home.  Makes it easier.  But oh, if I did have a permanent home, it would be so so tempting to buy, oh, a table runner.  Covers for throw pillows.  A wall hanging.  Everything truly was a work of art!

 

Also, I swear I have been here before!  I suspect it was during my first class at La Romita, in 2007.  We walked in and everything was suddenly so familiar, and I told R that I had been here before.  Even Marta seemed to be someone I had met previously.  (I sent her an email to confirm this, and will report back.)

[Sidebar added 11 December 2024 - This is the reply I received from the weaving studio:  "Dear Phebe,

"We were very curious about this mystery so we looked through our calendar of 2007 (yes, we keep everything ^^) and unfortunately we couldn't find track of a visit in August 2007. We're sorry we can't confirm your impression, although we're pretty sure if you remember our Atelier there must be a good reason ;-).

"We hope to see you again for a next tour with new students!

"All the best,

"Team Brozzetti "

 

So, maybe I worked there in a previous lifetime.  Maybe I stumbled on the place in 2007.  Who knows, it could be the most intense dejá vu episode I've ever experienced.  It was something.]

We spent to entire morning at the studio.  This left us time to wander first through the underground fortress (spooky!), then through the center of Perugia to the main piazza, and have lunch.  It was a bit rainy, but most of us found the bakery and sandwich shop that Edmund had recommended.   We sat at the outside tables under umbrellas, and enjoyed our lunch – I had a grilled eggplant and veg panini, one of my favorites.  Dessert was a delightful chocolate cake/cream/ganache layered thing, with a cup of coffee.  (One needs chocolate to fight the chill from the rain.  Of
course!)

 

As we walked back to meet our bus, I bought several bars of milk chocolate for Richard.  When in Perugia, it’s the thing to buy.  My friends bought some super tasty little treats, and everyone was basically enjoying this specialty of Perugia.

 

I should add that Perugia’s symbol is the griffon, just like Narni(a).  I don’t know when or why various towns adopted symbols, often magical beings.  But I like the tradition, and personally think these magic creatures are

guardians of the cities.  I’d like knowing griffons or unicorns or dragons were keeping my home safe!

 

We also passed a carousel, with very normal looking horses, no griffons or dragons to be seen.  It was closed, unfortunately.  No rides for me!

 

Onward to Assisi, home to the well-known St. Francis, he of Brother Sun and Sister Moon, friend of animals, all creatures great and small.  There’s a huge cathedral there with frescoes – the lower level, the original Medieval church, has frescoes by Cimabue, a friend of St. Francis.  The upper level is a bit newer, and has frescoes from artists such as Giotto and Lorenzetti.

 

I visited the cathedral here on my first visit.  And….that feels like enough for me.  Some churches, such as the little one in Todi, are open and airy, and I enjoy the peace and quiet and spiritual quality of them.  Or the duomo of Spoleto, with Lippi's glowing and realistic frescoes in the apse only – I will go there every visit.  But others, such as the cathedral in Assisi, is just visually overwhelming.  There are so many frescoes, from the walls to the vaulted ceilings, that my eyes and brain and soul just go into visual overload.

 

I’m not saying don’t visit the cathedral.  It’s worth a visit, especially if you like churches and Medieval art.  But, one visit is enough for me.  I skipped the cathedral in Assisi. 

 

We had a nice walk up and down the streets and through the various piazzas.  We visited the fabulous hand-made watercolor store, where I had bought a pocket-sized watercolor set two years ago and used for painted sketches on this trip.  Also dropped in at the paper and book store, and I bought myself a beautiful set of stationary with traditional illuminated designs.

 

We managed to find the outer gate that took us to the parking lot where we would meet our bus.  The walk took us outside the walls of Assisi, so we were overlooking the very verdant fields of Umbria on our downhill walk, with grey clouds and bits of fog hanging overhead.  Beautifully scenic.  Also rather damp.

It was a very full day, and we returned to the school and our rooms after dark.  Full of images of weaving, color, frescoes, and also full of food (and chocolate!).   

 

Another great day!