La Cascata delle Marmore 2024

14 October 2024

Not far from La Romita is La Cascata delle Marmore, the Roman built waterfall that diverts water from a swamp so it flows dramatically over a rocky cliff.  It has a long and involved history, with different emperors changing or improving the channels - I have a quick summary in a previous blog post, so here's the link if you'd like to read it:  https://rollingluggagers.blogspot.com/2022/12/pandemic-diaries-italian-interlude-9.html

 

Modern technology uses the diverted water to create hydroelectric energy.  At 9:45 AM each morning, the waterfall is dry, just an empty cliff face.  Promptly at 10 AM, a siren sounds and continues for a minute or two.  Then the waterfall is turned on, and it begins as a moderate flow of water.  (Yes, there are now giant faucets that spew forth the water.  And somewhere there must be some giant handle that is turned, either manually or electronically.)

The water falls in lacy waves - to me, it always looks something like a bridal veil, a fall of sheer lace or tulle, draping down the dark cliff.  

After maybe 15-20 minutes, a second siren sounds for a minute or two.  The water flow is turned up, the waterfall increases in force, the dropping water begins to create mist that rises above the forest surrounding the cascade's path.

There is a third siren at 11 AM, when the water is turned on full force and the waterfall becomes a raging torrent crashing down the cliff and through the forest.  Mist clouds rise and shroud the actual waterfall so that it is barely visible, and the falling water creates its own thundering sound.  It really is dramatic to see the full waterfall, and absolutely worth getting there to watch the waterfall begin.  (I'm not sure when it is turned off in the afternoon, I would guess about 4 or 5 PM.)

We arrived in plenty of time to see the waterfall turned on.  Our bus dropped us at one of the many parking lots.  Two people programmed the waterfall location into their mobile phones, decided on a certain direction, and the entire group went racing off that way.  I wasn't sure this was the right way, but, well, can't argue with a GPS, right?  (You know that I should have.)

Anyway, we had a nice hike through a forest.  The hardy hikers raced ahead, I lingered toward the back, and just enjoyed the autumnal scenery.  One of the dyers was picking various leaves and flowers, so we chatted a bit.  Once we walked by a farmhouse, I said I was convinced we were all going in the wrong direction, and I was going to turn around.  Everyone else was too far ahead, and for some reason my mobile phone refuses to work in Italy, so, oh well, I wandered back on my own.

I did check with a few people along the way, asking "dove il basso della cascata?"  I was pretty sure that was close to "where is the base of the waterfall" - turns out "basso" isn't "base," but it is "bottom," so that worked just fine.  People pointed in the direction, gave me the standard "dritto" (straight ahead), and I found the waterfall just as it was being turned on.  So lots of photos of that beginning trickle that slowly grew into a moderate stream of water.

 

I ran into another student, and we watched the water for a while.  There was a walkway along the viewing area, with seating.  Also a covered area with more seating, so the arches created lovely framing for the cascading water.

 

Eventually our entire group returned and went hiking up the trail that runs parallel to the waterfall's path.  I wandered a bit, heard the siren for the second water turn, watched the flow from a distance but the sun was shining into the mist so the photos were one big blur of white.  (So check the link above for photos of the full cascade.)

 

More wandering and ambling took me to the little shops to one side of the waterfall, where I found a lovely store selling all sorts of truffle products.  I'm addicted to black truffles, and had planned to buy some items while I was in Italy.  I chatted with the shop lady in my minimal Italian, understood about half or two-thirds of what she said, and tasted a variety of delicious products.  (Bread dipped in lemon peel olive oil - oh my!!!  Incredible!)

I eventually bought two jars of black truffle honey (acacia honey, which I guess is extra special, but I wouldn't really know) - one for myself, one for a friend who seemed to become equally addicted when I shared some.  I realize it sounds odd, truffled honey, but trust me, it's an amazing combination.  Serve on sliced fruits like apples and pears.  Or on cheese.  Or just on bread.  It makes a delightful dessert or snack.

By then it was time for a cappuccino break, and Shelley and her family joined us at the café.  So we sat and chatted, and she and her husband raced off to buy some lemon olive oil and truffle honey.  What can I say, Italian food products are incredible and truly make some of the best souvenirs!

 

I also sketched the dragon (first photo) - he was etched into a cement block on a tiny bridge, and I took his photo on our hike in the wrong direction.  I don't know if he's the guardian of the waterfall, or the bridge, or the little stream.  But I like dragons, so sure, I sketched his portrait.

 

Our group of hikers returned, eventually the bus came, and we headed back to La Romita.  We had an entire afternoon in the art studio, so I was finally able to begin weaving.  Wooohoooo, learning a new art form!!  Thrilling!!!