We’re spending part of our
time in Auckland looking at different possibilities for tiki touring around the
South Island – but we’re also enjoying everything that Auckland has to offer.
There seems to be a park
without a name surrounding the old clock tower building at the University of
Auckland, a bit of a wild and untamed park with wandering paths, tall trees,
mown lawns and uncombed flowerbeds overflowing their borders. Plus the clock tower building, which
had an old colonnade, somehow with the feel of a Regency abbey or convent,
which was part of our route through the park.
Then into Albert Park, a
very British and very manicured park, with symmetrically place flower beds and
rows of palm trees and of course the fountain in the center of the paths. The Auckland Art Gallery is in one
corner of Albert Park, so this was an easy walk from our hotel (despite the
fact that the park is actually a hilltop and much of the hill itself – but so
much prettier than walking around the somewhat level route that circumnavigates
the park).
It was wonderful.
The rest of the Auckland Art
Gallery – there were highs and lows – modern art that one wonders why it’s in a
museum; portraits of Maori leaders painted in the 1800s, showing traditional
tattoos and clothing; a collection of “Victorian paintings” in all their wonderful
over-sentimentality, or, to be British about it, treacley. (Or, in Yiddish, schmaltzy.)
But, me being me, I had
strange and interesting experiences.
In the modern section, I was looking around, and saw a tall thin man,
accompanied by a museum staff woman.
He went to what I thought was just a wall (minimalist wall) and opened
the door – turned out to be a room with a mirrored floor and ceiling, with
striped walls, so that when you look in it appears to go on and on forever
vertically, like you are walking into an empty elevator shaft – I looked in and
immediately turned around, saying no, I just can’t do that. So he and I had a long conversation
about vertigo and dizziness and what triggers in, and stairs made out of
grating, and elevators out of glass.
Then I moved along to another area, he and the woman staffer were
talking about an installation of window frames and fluorescent lights, I added
my take on it. We chatted
again. Then another staff member
came up and the woman introduced the man, saying, “You must meet the famous
John Yadayada” (I didn’t catch the last name) and it dawned on me that this guy
must be some well-known New Zealand artist – and there I was, chatting up with
him like he’s just some shmoe in the museum. Ooops! Ah well,
what do I know anyway? I’m just an
American tourist. So I laughed at
myself and quietly moved along.
(Not before hearing the dude tell the young staffer, in front of an
installation of tiered glass bottles and vases, “Don’t you want to just crash
into this? Just like Peter
Griffin!” – and of course, I had to laugh at that one, too.)
Second strange experience –
as I went wandering into the Victorian overly-sweet painting section, I
realized there was a young baritone singing in the arched gallery, doing operatic
versions of sea chanteys or light opera like “I am the Pirate King” – he had a
wonderful voice and the acoustics were great – but it just didn’t fit the
paintings, which seemed to focus on women at home or couples in love. Just a very weird juxtaposition of pink
and white and frilly people with the deep voice singing of the sea.
Monday dawned grey and
drizzly, so we’ve been taking care of business like researching the South
Island and ways to travel around there, where to go next, all that. We’ve pretty much decided to not extend
our NZ visas, and we’ll head out at the end of January, probably heading to the
southern part of Australia. Not
sure, but that’s the vague plan.
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