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March 2017 - posted on 10 March in Manaus
We
stopped in Fortaleza for a day, Brazil’s fifth largest city, located on the
northern coast of Brazil just past that bulge into the ocean. Fortaleza means “fortress” in Portuguese, so
the city is named for the large fort that once dominated the skyline. The original fort was built by the Dutch in
1649, but was surrendered to the Portuguese in 1654 and renamed. The old fort has been remodeled, so it no
longer looks like an historic old fort – the exterior looks more like some
traditional old colonial building full of windows, painted sort of a peach
color. The fort is also still used as a
military site, and was full of young soldiers in green, complete with
scary-looking automatic weapons. We
peeked in, but skipped going through the fort with a military guide.
There’s
also a huge old cathedral in the central square, diagonally across from the
fort. The cathedral looks like the usual
Gothic style, except it’s made from cement, marking it as fairly modern. According to the cruise info guide, building
the cathedral began in 1939, but it wasn’t completed until 1978 – forty years
to build!
I
tried to visit the beach near the port terminal, but a guard stopped me. And we were told in town that all of the
beaches were closed to the public. We
don’t know what was going on – if there was some kind of contamination in the
water, or on the sand, or if maybe there had been some problems on the beaches
such as certain crimes. I tried asking
the guard at the port, but couldn’t understand his reply in Portuguese. So we never made it to the beach.
The
port terminal had interesting murals painted on the building, though, just
black-on-white images in a very folk-art style.
We
also browsed the craft market in town, set up in the former jail building. Always interesting, but we’re not in the
market to buy much of anything. However,
there were a bunch of cats hanging out in the market, and a cute young black
kitty was happy to be held, pet, cuddled, and snuggled right up to me. My kitty therapy!
We
found a café in the central park that had wifi, although it was really slow and
we weren’t able to do much. Couldn’t
even post a blog, so our cone of silence continues.
And
that was sort of it for Fortaleza. It
seemed like a rather sad city to me, economically depressed and parts were
really run down. Also, this was the
first time we saw people begging on the streets – always sad, and it makes me
feel so unable to make any kind of social change to help people in need.
We’re
now at sea again, heading to the Amazon River delta, where we can enter the
river system at high tide. Our ship is
considered small, with room for “only” 1300 passengers – this is why we’re able
to cruise along the Amazon, while most cruise ships are much larger and unable
to cruise any rivers, even one as huge as the Amazon.
I’ll
end with photos of the mural opposite the port terminal in Rio. This mural is huge, painted on a block-long
building. The title is “Etnicos,” which
I’m assuming means something like “Ethnicities” or people representing various
ethnic groups around the world. There
are huge faces, small maps, and geometric quilt-like designs in the
background. The artist signed his work
with his name “Kobra” which may or may not be his real name. But the work is riveting, and really needs no
further explanation – the mural speaks for itself.
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