We drove from Christchurch
to Oamaru (pronounced OH-mah-roo), the town best known for its gorgeous
Victorian architecture, and for the numerous colonies of penguins here – yellow
eyed penguins on one side of the peninsula, little blue penguins on the other
side. There’s a penguin viewing
business with viewing stands (and premium stands for a premium price) – but the
penguins won’t be bought, and many of them insist on gathering around the wharf
in town.
After dinner, about 8:30 PM,
we drove out to the reserve where the yellow eyed penguins hang out – we met
some people coming up the trail, and they said they didn’t see any, but they
heard them. So we decided to keep
the yellows for tomorrow, and headed down to the wharf.
Jackpot!!!! A few penguins had already come in and
were standing among the rocks at the beginning of the wharf, where numerous
nesting boxes have been placed. We
even saw a fuzzy baby penguin come out and harass its mama for some food!! We could see, further out in the ocean,
large groups of little black blobs bouncing around – that’s where the little
blue penguins gather at dusk, so that they can come in in large groups called
rafts – safety in numbers and all that.
We waited, and waited –
watched the few penguins that were in – watched the penguins out at sea group
and regroup. Finally, a few small
groups broke off and headed in, and we watched as they dove and swam and made
it to our rocky area – they all seemed to know the best route up the rocks, and
aimed for that, riding in on the waves, bouncing around in the surf, bumping
into the rocks and jumping bouncing scrambling up. One little guy didn’t quite make it to the entry point and
was drifting off – he squawked at his friends (“I’ll be right back, wait for
me”) and swam off to join another raft coming in a bit later.
On and on they came, in
dribs and drabs, maybe five or eight at a time, jumping and hopping up the
rocks, resting briefly before hopping up another rock or two. Then some shaking out the water, a bit
of preening to get the feathers back in shape, little flipper arms outstretched
to dry out – and then waddling up to their nesting box, often in pairs, with
the occasional juvenile waddling behind the parents if it was old enough to be
at sea, or the little fuzzy baby coming out to be fed.
It was so exciting!!!! There must have been over one hundred
penguins coming in, clambering up both sides of the rocky wharf, occasionally
scurrying across the dirt road to their nest on the other side, with whistling
and warbling and mewling (seriously, the babies sound almost like kittens!).
There were family squabbles,
and one mama had to jump on an intruder who was heading straight to her nest –
really, she leapt on top of another penguin and knocked it down the rock as
they screamed at each other!!!!!
All kinds of drama in the penguin world tonight!
I don’t have photos at the
moment – signs ask people not to use flash, and I don’t know how to turn off
the flash on my camera – but one woman said she’d email some photos to me, so
I’ll post those when I can. So I’m
adding some internet photos just so you can see the little blue penguins that are
unique to New Zealand and southern Australia – they’re about 12 inches tall,
and sort of a dark charcoal grey with a blue cast – almost like a Russian blue
cat, but darker. The very young
ones were all grey, but the adolescents and adults were in their tuxedo look
with the white front and dark blue grey back and heads.
These penguins are shy, but almost curious about the
people watching. One little guy
tried to cross the road in front of me – it took him a few minutes to come out
a few steps, pause, watch me, then a few more steps, stop, check me again, then
waddle run across the road to the other side, and walk along that side to
within a yard of me before he went down into the bushes. I
was thrilled!! And one young woman apparently sat down to watch - then
a few penguins tried to cross the road, and were distracted by her
shoes - when I walked by, two young penguins were nipping on this
woman's shoe!!!
But these little blue
penguins are so cute, so interesting, so entertaining to watch!!!!! It was freezing cold, they were loving
it, the whole beach smelled of fish, and it was one of the best experiences
we’ve had in NZ!!!!!
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